With Milano Moda Uomo over, it’s time to turn on the spotlights on Paris Fashion Week.
The fashion system’s eye is now set on the Ville Lumière, where the new male collections for Winter 2022/2023 have been unveiled.
Opening the French kermesse proposals from Lemaire, Ami and Acne Studios alongside Y/Project by Glenn Martens.
The creative director shows his passion for upcycling, and unveils a preview of the collaboration with his mentor Jean-Paul Gautier.
Among debuts and homages, under the Eiffel Tower there have also been thrilling moments for the insiders.
Louis Vuitton brings the new collection from Virgil Abloh
In a very emotional moment, Louis Vuitton show has been a last farewell to menswear creative director Virgil Abloh, passed away last November.
The last collection from the visionary American stylist has been shown at the Carreau du Temple with music, lights and atmosphere chosen and programmed by himself.
Once again, the main feature of Abloh’s stylistic language is the streetwear elevated to luxury and reimagined with a designer’s eye.
Men dressed in pale off-white with big wings, looking like a parade of angels, wore hoodies, trench coats, shorts and T-shirts with minimal lines alternated with abstract fantasies looks.
Dior Men, Kim Jones celebrates 75 years of New Look at Paris Fashion Week
It was 12th February 1947 when in Paris, a young Christian Dior presented his first collection in his atelier in Avenue Montaigne, a collection that would have changed fashion history forever.
A revolution already felt at the time, so that the style of Monsieur Dior was immediately named New Look.
Now, the creative director of the maison’s menswear, Kim Jones, brings back and revisits those very silhouettes in a male fashion.
From the tailor-made suits to the more streetwear bombers, jackets tighten in the waist, getting a couture line.
Long and wide coats are closed by belts, and trousers are more comfort fit.
The palette is pervaded by grey, from dove-grey to more decise shades, from the silvery purity of light blue to touches of black and sage green.
Kenzo by Nigo: the debut of the new creative director
In the same location where Kenzo Takada started off with his first collection 52 years ago, now is the time for the debut of the new creative director, the stylist Nigo.
The Gallerie Vivienne in Paris has been once again the setting for a show that sets the start of a new chapter for the Japanese maison.
The journey of the Japanese designer starts sifting through Kenzo’s archives to create coordinate looks for men and women.
Workwear gets a military allure with coats, bombers and aviator jackets in nylon and shearling, sometimes sweetened by floral prints and mixes of tweed and denim,
There are also pop culture details referring to manga culture, like the cat-scarf or designs inspired by cartoons.
Paris fashion week: the rigour of Hermès and the craftwork of Jil Sander
At the male fashion week in Paris there have always been proposal from brands like Issey Miyake, Yamamoto, Rick Owens and Dries Van Noten.
Vernoique Nichanian for Hermès proposed her concept of traditional menswear.
Luxury suits and precious jackets have been made contemporary by daring accessories.
The couple Luke and Lucie Meier enhanced textile craftwork for Jil Sander, relying on a warm and bright knitwear enriched by geometrical patterns.
Finally, Jonathan Anderson, for Loewe, surprised with a pop, almost futuristic collection.
Tops and T-Shirts have been deformed like they have been digitally retouched, shoes and accessories are playfully in plastic.
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