Precious, charming, highest expression of tailoring excellence: haute couture has come back on Parisian catwalks to make us dream.
In the last few days spring-summer 2022 collection by Maisons like Alexandre Vauthier, Zuhair Murad, Stéphane Rolland and Viktor&Rolf have been unveiled.
Notably absents in this January fashion week names like Armani Privè and Balenciaga, despite the much appreciated come-back of last summer 53 years after the last défilé.
Empirical creatures by Schiaparelli
After two years spent thinking of surreal, I found myself thinking of the empirical sky as an escape from the chaos of the planet, but also as the house of a mythic priestess, at the same time goddess and alien, who can walk among us.
This is how creative director Daniel Roseberry described the new Schiaparelli woman, a being whose clothes defy gravity.
Razor-sharp shapes, narrow waists and oversized collars, ready to take off, are alternated to faille ecru silk shorts.
This season revolts around a further experimentation of Schiaparelli’s Gold, its shade perfected.
Then it all came down to a new kind of gold specifically designed for the Maison, made of 24k gold leaf.
Haute couture: Christian Dior’s craftworks and Valentino’s inclusion
The Maison Christian Dior keeps focusing on tailoring and craftsmanship through the complexity of the embroideries.
The latter form the very structure of dresses and accessories.
Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri unveils an essential luxury, with an harmonious palette enhancing delicate and refined shades like grey, white and beige.
The savoir faire of high fashion brands is underlined by complicate techniques such as double cloth and plissé soleil, from boule embroideries to boucleé wool.
For the haute couture of Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli chooses a tale in 64 looks of body consciousness and inclusion.
Diverse bodies bring on stage bright colors and sensual see-throughs, the silouhettes are clean but at the same time rich and refined.
Chanel’s amazons on high fashion catwalk
The unexpected entrance of Charlotte Casiraghi on a bay horse opened the Maison Chanel défilé.
This season is a creative mix in an equestrian key, between Coco Chanel’s roaring twenties, Karl Lagerfeld’s artistic flair and the rigorous femininity of Virginie Viard.
Once again, black and white are the main elements, defining jackets and light dresses with vents, deep necklines and see-though inserts.
Floral patterns and ribbons complete skirts and trousers.
Fendi’s spiritual couture and the celebration of beauty by Elie Saab
Fendi Couture’s Spring-Summer 2022 is a celebration of the Eternal City.
A celebration of that everlasting sacred atmosphere, on the edge of past and present, typical of Rome, the city in which the griffe has its roots.
For his first physical défilé to the Haute Couture week, creative director Kim Jones brought women of lavish elegance, made of trains and plumage, rich embroideries and velvet.
Also eternal is the beauty that is at the foundation of the Maison Elie Saab.
Lebanese couturier presents once again charming and light creations, in organdy decorated with crystal flowers, faille, shantung or chiffon.
The debut of Jean Paul Gautier Haute Couture by Glenn Martens
The long awaited Jean-Paul Gautier Haute Couture by Glenn Martens lived up to the expectations, in a reinterpretation of the most iconic elements of the enfant terrible by the inspired Belgian designer.
Lingerie and over the top dress trains are mixed with technological patterns in a triumph of velvet, optical fabrics and tulle.
For other articles about the most recent events in high fashion, follow these links:
- Paris Fashion Week, spotlight on menswear
- Menswear is coming back to Milano Moda Uomo
- The Year 2022 will be Very Peri for Pantone